For years (28 to be exact), my mother has been extolling the virtues of grandparenthood. “If I knew how wonderful it was to have grandchildren,” she has often said, “I would have had them first!”

Last week, our daughter-in-law (DIL) stopped by for an overnight visit with our first grandson, Charlie, who has just turned one. My husband and I eagerly offered to let our DIL sleep in the next day. “We can take care of everything,” we offered with confidence. Taking us at our word, at five a.m. our sleepy DIL handed us a not-remotely-sleepy Charlie. He was wet, hungry and ready for action. Where should we begin?

The diaper. My husband and I each gave a silent prayer and a brave sniff. Praise be! The diaper was only wet!! We changed it with relative ease—hurdle number one: check!

As I am a sentimentalist and a very practical person at heart, I have kept certain items that others would have tossed long ago. Thus, we set up the highchair that our youngest son used 28 years before. It still worked perfectly. Hurdle number two: check! Our DIL had said that Charlie’s food was in the green bag. The correct bag was located with formula, bottles, baby food jars and some ‘easy squeezy packs’ containing such food blends as ‘Organic Apple Broccoli Peas Brown Rice’. “Do you think we are supposed to heat this?” I asked aloud. Richard looked at the package, and at me, as if we were both from Mars. That was seriously no help. After a bit more rummaging, I found an “organic pear banana kiwi” food pouch. That sounded like a good breakfast food…and it wouldn’t need to be heated. We went with that. Hurdle number three: check!

I left the bottle preparation to Richard…and I was glad that I did. “Why do they make the print for the formula instructions so small?” Richard grumbled. “And why don’t they say if we need to boil the water or not.” “There’s cooled boiled water in the kettle,” I said. Hurdle number four: check.

Charlie seemed pleased with our selections, and our preparations. He ate, drank and played happily. Feeling triumphant with our successes so far, we decided to take Charlie, and our dog, Cody, for a walk. How hard could that be?

“Socks,” Richard uttered and repeated. “Charlie will need socks.”  My DIL and Charlie were sharing a single duffle bag for their clothes and personal items. The duffle bag was upstairs, right beside the guest bedroom door. I tried to sneak upstairs quietly but Charlie, quite loudly, made it clear that he was not staying downstairs with Grandpa. “It’s a woman’s touch,” I said shrugging, as I quietly carried Charlie upstairs.

Lawrence of Arabia could not have gotten through that duffle bag! Seriously, babies require lots of stuff! I tried to be quiet. I honestly did. But Charlie kept finding things that banged together nicely…and loudly!

“Do you need something?” my half-awake DIL murmured, now standing before me. At that precise moment her bra was in my hand as I rifled through her things. “Socks,” I stammered. “Richard thought that Charlie would need socks.” Without even adjusting her eyes, she picked up Charlie’s socks from the middle of the (now incredibly scattered) pile. How did she do that? Hurdle number five: partial check!

With that, I grabbed the first tiny short-set that I could see (which I later found out were Charlie’s swim shorts and UV protection swim top). Back downstairs, we quickly dressed Charlie–socks, UV protection and all. We put Cody on his leash, Charlie in his stroller and off we went.

We were very proud of ourselves. Charlie had been changed, dressed, fed and (gently) wrangled into his stroller. We could do this! We made it to our local coffee shop and sat at an outside table. The breakfast special was coffee plus bacon and eggs on an English muffin. It came with a side of watermelon slices. That sounded like a just reward for our efforts. We ordered two. I would like to say that they were delicious, but Cody managed to abscond with most of the bacon and Charlie was intent on eating all of the watermelon. “Is he allowed to have unstrained watermelon?” Richard asked. “I won’t tell if you don’t,” I pledged.

We finished our breakfast—baby, dog, and grandparents now happy and content. Charlie fell asleep on our way back home, allowing his mother even more sleep time. All hurdles had now been successfully completed: double checks…with a bonus mark!

The entire experience was amazing. So many little joys that both Richard and I had forgotten. As we now have two more grandchildren on the way, we say: “Bring it on…we can handle it!” Just ask Charlie.

P.S. My mother was right. Having a grandchild is very cool indeed!

IMG_1563 (1)


Thoughts from a Travel Buff: Is Home Exchange Right for You?

We’ve just returned from an immensely enjoyable week in Victoria, BC. While there, we explored many breathtaking hiking trails, had some magnificent beach time, bought our groceries at local farmers’ markets, took in a couple of IMAX films…and had a restful and rejuvenating stay.

Okay, I know what you’re thinking— “these people are traveling fools! Do they ever stay home?” We love our home, and we do stay here…sometimes. As our retirement allows us the time and flexibility to travel, and there are many people and places that we want to see, we take advantage of this freedom whenever we can (while we can)! Adding to this, our travel tastes are simple, so we have been able to get around quite affordably. Since retiring, all but two of our excursions have been road trips. For accommodations, we have been fortunate to be able to stay with friends/family, find low-cost roadside motels and to use home exchange.

In fact, our recent trip to Victoria was a home exchange (and our fall trip to Palm Desert will be one as well). We became part of this network over twelve years ago when we were living in Beijing. A friend of mine, who was an experienced home-swapper, tried to describe it to me. “The best thing about it is not the money saved…it’s something more than that..”, she just couldn’t find the right words to explain. After doing our first exchange (2004), I knew exactly what she meant.  For one thing, it was the space– not being confined to a small hotel room and not being tightly surrounded by tourist traps. It was also the freedom– especially the freedom to read my book in peace, as the television blared out Richard’s favorite shoot-em-up kind of movie…in another room. It was the ability to buy fresh, local produce and prepare this in a proper kitchen (not being restricted to endless restaurant meals). Even more importantly (at least for us), it was about being part of a neighbourhood and being able to have more genuine local sights and experiences right outside our front door. However, the money not drained away by accommodation costs and constantly eating out should not be overlooked…you can save heaps.

Started by  Ed Kushins in 1992 as a printed mail-out, (the site that we use) has grown into a vast social network. It was one of the early businesses to adopt “collaborative consumption” (Source).

Is it safe?  Experienced, credible home exchange organizations put several tools and guidelines in place to help with safety and security for all of their home exchange clients. For example, includes 24/7 on-line member support, detailed member profiles, private/secure messaging systems, comprehensive home exchange agreements, verification of phone numbers/email address/social media accounts as well as verified reviews.

Along with these features, insurance companies generally welcome clients using home exchange as, statistically, break-ins are reduced when a home is occupied (Source).

It is also important that the individuals taking part in the exchange use due diligence. It is highly recommended to meet with your insurance agent and verify that your coverage is adequate. It is also important to take ample time to establish clear communication with potential exchange partners.

My husband and I have completed fourteen very successful home exchanges to date. We have our fifteenth exchange coming up shortly plus one ‘in the bank’ (they’ve stayed at our place in Beijing, now we just need to find the time to get to Panama!)

Do I recommend home exchanging for others? We have loved our home exchanges, and this method of accommodation has worked out very well for us. That being said, I recognize that this type of arrangement is not for everybody. If you are interested in the concept of home exchange, I  highly recommend investigating it, looking around, asking questions and seeing if this is something that you feel comfortable trying. If it is, again I stress the importance of taking your time in the process. If you feel rushed or pressured by another party, or if your gut just says “no,”  my advice is to skip that exchange and wait for another one that feels right for you. currently offers 65,000 listings in over 150 countries. With a bit of flexibility, your options should be plentiful!


Feature Photo:  Victoria, BC: a relatively short drive from our home…but we felt like we were worlds away.

Photos Below: Previous Home Exchanges (many on which one or more of our other family members joined us).

CIMG0162San Francisco, USA, 2004







Maroochydore, Australia, 2006





Phoenix, Arizona, 2012






Six Fours les Plages, Southeastern France, 2014









Vancouver, BC.  Due to the extreme generosity of our home exchange partner, we enjoyed numerous stays here.


To list only a few!! We also had home exchanges in: Paris, Prague, Bangkok, Las Vegas, Ladner (BC),  as well as in three different accommodations in Vancouver (BC).



Canada 150 Mosaic: My (Brief) Stint as a Painter

You’d think that I would have gotten the hint at Paint Night (or long before that, actually).  I seriously cannot paint! But when two friends mentioned that they planned to take part in a mosaic painting activity that was taking place in our town, I immediately signed up!

In celebration of Canada’s 150th birthday (July 1, 2017), Lewis Lavoie, Paul Lavoie and Phil Alain initiated a very ambitious endeavour, entitled “Canada 150 Mosaic”. Through this project, the team members work with 150 different communities across Canada. In each selected town or city, people of all ages, and of all artistic abilities, gather together to paint images on 10 cm X 10 cm ceramic tiles. The individual pictures can be of anything that represents the participants’ local area. When completed, over 80,000  tiles will create 150 separate, but connected murals. The murals will reside in the communities where they were made. If they were all joined together, the unified artwork would measure the size of four football fields! (Source)

It was an incredible vision. Still, two days before our town’s ‘paint-in’, I panicked. What could I paint? More specifically, what could I produce that I wouldn’t be mortified to see every time I passed by its prominent display in our City Hall?

Gathering all artistic supplies that I owned (a couple of highlighters, a few old crayons, and some white computer paper), I set out to draft a simple mountain and water scene that I thought that I could handle…one that wouldn’t embarrass me too much.  When I was finished, Richard walked by, and I asked him what he thought. “Could you get a friend to help you?” was his earnest reply. Ouch!

To make matters worse, one of my friends suggested that I look at the Cochrane, Alberta Mural website, where you can see each individual tile, as well as the whole mural put together. My advice to anyone who is just about to paint their tile for this mural project is “Don’t look”! There was no way that I could have painted any of those tiles…not even the ones that were done by primary school students. I was seriously doomed.

I am nothing if not tenacious. After watching several YouTube beginner’s painting tutorials, as well as running out to our local craft store, I had a simple plan that I believed that I could follow.

Our community’s paint session happened over a lovely weekend on our town’s beautiful beach front. The organizers were friendly, easy-going and encouraging. Like the nerd that I am, I lined up my paint supplies, and my practice painting that I had prepared, and I began. My completed tile will never provoke any genuine “oohs” or “ahhs”, but I was proud of myself for trying…and for not embarrassing myself too badly!

This is one of the great joys of retirement. In my work life, I mostly stuck to what I knew…what I was confident in and what I believed that people expected me to do. In my thirteen months of retirement, I have already experimented with countless activities in which I have very little background. I no longer feel that I need to stay confined to what I believe I do best. The sky is the limit!

Special thanks to the Canada 150 Mosaic Team for envisioning, and actualizing, such a cool commemorative for Canada’s 150th birthday!


Feature Photo: The beginnings of the Parksville Mural

IMG_8647Paint Day







My Tile






-1More of Parksville’s Initial Mural

Top Ten Lessons Learned on the Camino Trail: Personal Reflections

  1. I can go for days without any computer, tablet or phone connectivity. I can and I did. The world did not end. Who knew?
  1. I cannot plan everything. Even I (who previously thought that spontaneity was for slackers) have begun to realize that improvisation is often the most challenging and rewarding commitment of all.
  1. Music is a powerful tool. Numerous studies have repeatedly found music to boost mood, memory, learning, immune systems and performance (Source 1, Source 2, Source 3). After successfully using music to get me up the most difficult climbs, I am now a devout believer!
  1. I am an extroverted introvert. I love building connections with others (the Camino provides an ideal environment for this). I also need my alone time (once again, the Camino provides).
  1. The journey (heavily) outweighs the destination. Our deepest and fondest memories are not of where we ended up each day, but how we got there, who we met, and what transpired along the way.
  1. I need fewer material goods than I had realized. Excess stuff merely serves to weigh down the body, the spirit and the mind.
  1. I can achieve more than I ever believed I could. I simply need to start by putting one foot in front of the other (and one word down on my page)!
  1. On the Camino, kindness was the rule, never the exception. If kindness can be the norm on the Camino, can we also not make it the rule in our daily lives?
  1. There is incredible serenity in living life more slowly. (Just ask Eugene!)
  1. For some inexplicable reason, I have been blessed to meet and marry the most incredible person that I have ever known. This is a lesson that I already knew well, and it was continually reinforced on our travels. When the road became tough, Richard earnestly offered to carry my backpack with his. Although I never took him up on this, the offer alone made my pack feel much lighter. When my toes became battered and bruised, from too much rapid downhill, Richard lent me his hiking sandals and carried my boots. More importantly, without the distractions of home (and technology), we discussed our future, reminisced about the past, admired each other strengths and laughed…a lot!

For these reasons and more, we will be back.  In just over a year, Richard will turn seventy. It is our current plan, God willing, to return to where we left off in Najera and complete the remaining 600 kilometers from there.

IMG_8470 (1)






To be continued in September 2017! (In the meantime, I will go back to my regular weekly posts…now, what will I do with all of that free time?)

Days 9 & 10 – Bilbao: A Change of Pace

Our one-and-a-half days in Bilbao were exactly what we needed before the long flight home. Although my mind would not shut down (even when it was supposed to be in sleep mode) my legs instantly became heavy. I was extremely glad to have that first half day to humour the parts of my body that wished to do nothing but loaf.

That gave us one full day to explore the sights, sounds, and tastes of Bilbao. Sadly, it was a holiday Monday so many places, including the famed Guggenheim Museum, were closed (sacrilege, I know—but we still enjoyed viewing the museum grounds which in themselves were incredible). We meandered the many narrow streets, wandering through little parks and plazas, marveling at both the quaint shops and the striking churches as we went.

Grand old buildings stood beside sleek modern ones striking a vivid contrast between old and new. That scenery was in complete harmony with the local people who dotted the streets and parks, especially in the evenings. Young and old–traditional and trendy– met and mingled, chatted, ate pinchos and took their time. No one seemed to be in a hurry. Their restful, relaxed attitude was contagious, and just what the doctor ordered.

Serendipitously, we came across an amazing little restaurant, with absolutely the best pizza that either of us had ever tasted. “Yeah, right,” I can hear you thinking. But it was true. The absolute best – so much so that one bite alone was worth the entire trip to Bilbao (well…almost)! See photo below.

It was a lovely day and a half, and we were glad that we had had the extra time visit that amazing city. But…we already missed the trail!


La Tagliatella. Calle Licenciado Poza, 55, 48013 Bilbao
+34 944 27 81 81


Day 8 — Los Arcos to Najera (29.6K): A Change of Plans

Although we repeatedly told ourselves that we had no set goal as to where we would end up on the trail – that may have been true for the day-to-day – but we did secretly have an ultimate goal to arrive in Najera for our finish. Now with only 30 K to go, and relatively flat paths ahead of us, we were confident that we would achieve our target.

To add to our self-assurance, we had a fantastic start to the day. At a small breakfast café, with absolutely amazing pastry, we caught up with Mimi and Sarah (frequent roommates) as well as Steve and Kim (who we had met during our first night in Saint-Jean and were hoping to run into again). It was like ‘old home week’ and the conditions were set for a perfect day!

For no reason in particular, it turned out that the day was, in fact, not perfect. Nothing horrible – but nothing great. And Richard, who seldom complains, complained a great deal. The paths, while flat, were very rocky, and not a good match for Richard’s Canadian West Coast (sandy trail) hiking boots. On top of that, our route was mostly alongside a highway – definitely not Richard’s thing. Finally, as fate would have it, Richard’s Camino Trail Guidebook (which he both relied upon and adored) fell out of his backpack and could not be found. We also went for quite a long stretch without lunch. After the Eugene Levy fiasco we had not purchased a sandwich to go – so now we were left with our emergency Tic Tacs (aka breath mints)!

The day did improve. The Angels, as well as Mimi and Sarah, were at our Auberge that evening – and we ran into Steve and Kim again at dinner. The Camino unites its walkers in powerful ways, and that bond is incredible. Still, Richard’s sore feet, and my blisters, lingered.

You know that look when lovers glance at each other and history changes? We were always going to walk this trail for nine days. It had been solidly planned. Then, that evening in our auberge, as we prepared our things for the day ahead, I jokingly said to Richard: “Instead of walking to Santo Domingo tomorrow, we could take the bus to Bilbao one day early.” Then, without any other words spoken between us, that facetious statement became the plan. In the morning, we went through our usual trail-preparation routine, but instead of following the Camino shells to Santo Domingo, we had a leisurely breakfast…and then waited for the bus to Bilbao.

Perhaps it was because we already had our bus route to Bilboa sketched out in our heads, or because of the long list of things that we  wanted to see there. Perhaps it was our jointly sore feet, or simply the fact that we both knew the  end was near. Whatever the reason, I folded up my hiking poles and we boarded the bus. There was no turning back.

Auberge el Pegrino, Najera, c/San Fernando, 90, 26300, Najera, LaRioja, +34 941 896 027, 10 euros

Feature Photo: Richard and me with the Angels — Grace, Karen and Yvonne (Left to Right)




Sarah and Mimi








Steve and Kim






Birte (we last saw here the day before in Navarrete, but wished to include her here)

Day 7 – Los Arcos to Logrono (28.2 K): Eugene Levy, the Sandwich Maker

It is said that the ‘Camino provides’, and that it gives each individual the lesson(s) that h/she needs. Although I have begun to chill a bit (well…at least for me), patience is still a virtue to which I can only aspire. Seven kilometers outside of Los Arcos, we reached a small town, Sansol (population: 108). We decided to do a quick stop for a coffee and washroom break. As we reviewed our map, Richard advised that it may be a few hours before we would reach the next town, Viana, where we could have lunch. “Probably prudent to get a sandwich to go,” I suggested aloud. As I can be a bit cranky when hungry, Richard quickly agreed. Back to the counter I went with my order.

Now, imagine if you will, Eugene Levy, in all comedic pantomime splendor attempting to make a sandwich as SLOWLY as humanly possible. This will give you the best possible picture of what ensued. First, he saunters over to the tomatoes, carefully examining each one. Then saunters back to the baguettes — examines the bread, reexamines the tomato, firmly shake his head, and saunters back over to the tomatoes, now choosing a slightly smaller one. He raises his renowned eyebrows and characteristically wrings his hands as if to say “I can’t work under this pressure”. I seriously expected Catherine O’Hara to waltz in anytime! Then he goes back to the bread, slicing slowly. Then washes his knife (for the love of all things holy…it was only bread!) and then even more slowly slices the cheese (insert more aggravating knife washing here) and then the tomato. I wanted to scream! I wanted to jump behind the counter and finish making the sandwich myself. Sensing my impatience only seemed to slow Eugene down further. I gritted my teeth and waited.

When the pantomime show was finally over. I paid for my sandwich, grabbed my hiking poles, nodded to Richard and literally flew down the eleven-kilometer trail, fueled by pent up frustration. Although I did that trail in record time (for me), I also acquired four new blisters. “Slow down, Donna,” I could hear the Camino whisper.

When we finally reached Viana (in plenty of time for lunch), there was a huge Bull Run Festival in progress. We bumped into our Camino Angels there, and because they were ready to leave, they gave us their show-side seats where we had a great view of the festivities!

BTW – The Eugene Levy sandwich was incredibly delicious (fresh baguette, generous layers of thinly sliced cheese, a perfectly chosen tomato, salt, pepper and superior quality olive oil).

Albergue Logrono, Capitan Gallarza, 10 (La Rioja), Tel:941254226,, We splurged for a private room, 30 euros.


It was always exhilarating to see a new town on the horizon…even though I knew that it meant a steep climb was soon coming!


Bull Run Festivities in Viana


Private room splurge!


Eugene Levy and Catherine O’Hara, Canadian comedic actors. Photo credit:


Day 6 – Lorca to Los Arcos (29.5 K): A Loaf of Bread, A Jug of Wine, and Thou

(with apologies to Persian philosopher/poet, Omar Khayyam)

The Camino Frances is rich with intriguing surprises and delights. Today’s route was an exceptional example. Just outside of Estella, we reached the renowned Camino Wine Fountain, Fuente del Vino. It was built in 1991 and belongs to the Bodegas Irache winery. The adjoining monastery is said to have been the first pilgrim hostel on the Camino, and thus the fountain is meant to pay homage to the generosity shown to early travellers. The fountain is open daily between 8 a.m and 8 p.m. and is limited to a total of 100 liters of free wine each day (source).

A nearby sign reads:

“Pilgrim, if you wish to arrive at Santiago full of strength and vitality, have a drink of this great wine and make a toast to happiness.”

Although we were not travelling all of the way to Santiago, we were not ones to turn down strength and vitality (or free wine)! We filled up part of Richard’s small water bottle. The wine was surprisingly delicious….so much so that I accidentally left my hiking poles behind. Not a worry, the five-minute run back to get them (as Richard laughed underneath a shady tree…wine in hand) was totally worth it!

Because we were walking long days, without the vitality of youth, we (okay, maybe just me), did not always take full advantage of exploring many of the places of interest that each stop on the Camino offered. The Church of Santa Maria Los Arcos was the exception and is well worth a lingered visit, and a mention here. It was built and renovated between the 12th and 18th centuries and includes Romanesque, Protogothic, Renaissance and Baroque architecture (source). However, even with little knowledge of these time periods or influences, the church’s intricate and breathtaking beauty serves to capture and humble even the most unsuspecting visitor who peers through its doors.

Church of Santa Maria Los Arcos, Plaza de Santa Maria,                        Tel: 948441004 – 649909514

IMG_8440 (1)


I should  approach Marc Lefebvre, the Mayor of Parksville, about having a similar fountain placed in our town. It would be great for tourism!


Casa de la Abuela
Plaza de la Fruta 8
31210, Los Arcos, Navarra
Tel: +34 948 64 02 50
Breakfast:3.50 euros includes coffee/tea, juice, toast, cereal, hard-boiled egg and homemade cake!                                                             Photo Credit:




Day 5 – Zariquiegui to Lorca (27.1 K): Building Community

I must confess, my pen and paper notes started to become a bit sloppy at this time. Our days (although each unique) began to blur together.  I do remember starting this day by climbing  200 meters over two kilometers and then descending 300 meters over the next four-and-a-half. Although there was a cool photo op at the top of our ascent, as well as a food van to help console my self-pity, my whole body screamed, “when will there be an end to this merciless  up and down?”

What I also remember, even more clearly, and much more fondly, is that when we finally crawled into our auberge late that afternoon, our Camino Angels were there. As the Angels had left Zariquiegui about the same time as us, I asked when they got in. “A wee bit ago,” Karen replied softly, compassionately downplaying their much earlier arrival.  I blinked and looked again. Yup, the Angels looked fresh, well-rested and ready to conquer the world. This was a stark contrast to our haggard exhaustion. But once again, it was incredible what a hot shower and a warm Spanish meal could mend.
“As there is a terrific kitchen here, we’ll fix you breakfast in the morning,” Grace offered. “Eggs and toast okay?”

It was more than okay. It was like a mini-miracle!

Noel (who we had met previously), as well as Mark and Angela, also shared that Auberge and breakfast with us. The laughter, chatter, and stories continued long after the toast, eggs and coffee had run dry.

Although she was staying at an auberge across the road, I also need to mention Birte here. I have been remiss not to mention her previously. We met her in our auberge that first night in Saint-Jean. We were walking similar lengths of the trail each day, so we sometimes walked together. Birte had just finished high school. Her mother had always wanted to walk the Camino, but now, for a variety of reasons, was not able to fulfill that dream. Birte was making this pilgrimage for her mother, and for herself. She was bright, fit and determined. We admired her grit and her resolve.

This is one of the incredible offerings of the Camino – the strong community that you build with others who a mere few days prior, were total strangers.

La Bodega del Camino (we highly recommend it)
C/Placeta, 8
+34 948 541 327
8 euros per bed, 20 euros for private room (with shared bathroom)


Our reward for another tough climb: a very cool photo op!

fachada actual

La Bodega del Camino

BAR peque

La Bodega del Camino (attached) Bar and Restaurant

Day 4 – Larrasoana to Zariquiegui (25.7 K): We Should have Listened to the Bartender!

Because we had pushed on past Roncesvalles, we were not on the typical path of ‘stages’ for the Camino Frances. That meant we stayed in smaller towns most nights–which worked perfectly for us. The downside was that during the hottest part of the day we were walking sections of the trail that were much better suited to cooler mornings. The road from Pamplona to Zariquiegui was no exception. It was seven kilometers of LONG road with little or no shade. When we stopped in Cizur Menor to fill up our water bottles (the last spot to get food/drink/bed before Zariquigui), the bartender looked at us with disbelief. “You continuing the Camino now?” he asked. We nodded. “Bad idea. Too hot” he warned. “We’ll be all right,” I said, rechecking our water supply.  He then mumbled something under his breath. I was pretty sure that it wasn’t complimentary.  “He’s used to siestas,” I thought to myself.  And as his bar was one of the few places around that offered food and rooms, his words may have been somewhat self-serving. Still, his warning did serve to mess with my mind a bit. As we walked the remaining seven kilometers in the 36-degree Celsius heat, with almost no shade, and rationing our sips of water, I began to fear that the bartender might have been right. It was a hard climb halfway up the Alto de Perdon (that same section of trail would have been MUCH easier in the cool morning air).

But as we arrived at The Albergue San Andres, and were surrounded by other die-hard hikers (several whom we had met previously, including our ‘Camino Angels’) we knew that we had made the right choice. And as we quickly learned, there is nothing like a hot shower and a great meal shared with good company to nourish the soul and renew the spirit.

Albergue San Andres, C / Camino de Santiago, 4, Zariquiegui (Navarra) Tel: 948 35 38 76,

What was the weather like that afternoon? As Robin William said,
 “Hot! Damn hot! Real hot! Hottest thing (was) my shorts. I could cook things in it!” (source)